The renaissance of luxury watchmaking began from two unexpected sources bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères and watch designer Gerald Genta. A history of excellence in chronometry trials became meaningless in comparison to quartz timekeeping, and the prestige associated with high complications paled when faced with the inexpensive utility of multi-function digital watches. With highly accurate, affordable watches being produced in bulk from Japan, the Swiss needed a way to differentiate themselves in order to stay relevant in the changing market. Spearheaded by the Seiko Astron in 1969, the Swiss watch industry became embattled in an existential crisis against new technology that made mechanical watches obsolete. Although some now-iconic bracelets were born much earlier, one of the major catalysts that made watchmakers pay more attention to bracelet design was the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. The power of a unique bracelet is evident in how they have helped to create some of the most desirable watches of all time. Gerald Genta’s original sketches for the Royal Oak (left) and Nautilus (right). And unlike a simple strap, which is a perishable item with a finite lifespan, a bracelet has permanence it will endure as long as the watch itself, if not longer. A well designed bracelet not only increases wearing comfort on the wrist, it also becomes an extension of the watch itself, allowing the manufacturer to showcase their design philosophy along the entirety of the final product. But for some watches, and indeed some brands, the bracelet can be all-important. Bracelets may seem like inconsequential things, a method of tethering a watch to the wearer’s wrist and little more.

Gerald genta chrono sport lug to lug